Nico looked
like she came from a planet of bored beautiful women and was sent here to
mingle with the troglodytes. Because of her appearance, she was a natural for
the world of fashion, movies, and music, but the joke was on us – her inner
life was as gloomy as an alley full of syringes. When you meet this sort of
woman, you’re smitten, but you know a bad deal is going down.
There’d been
quickie parts in La Dolce Vita and A Man Named Rocca, for she was already
known in the early ‘60s as one of the top models in Europe, appearing in
everything from the covers of jazz albums to whiskey ads, but Nico’s first
starring role came in Jacques
Poitrenaud’s Sweet Skin (1963, aka Strip-Tease),
a curiosity in that she ends the film triumphantly, casting away a potential
marriage with a rich suitor, and her career as a stripper, to go where life
takes her. The underlying message of the movie, that anyone as beautiful as
Nico had to be secretly unhappy, was swatted down by an upbeat motto of “Let’s
have fun and be ourselves, baby!” But where Nico was concerned, fun seemed a
distant and elusive concept.
“No one loved
Nico, and Nico loved no one.” So says an old friend in Nico Icon, an excellent documentary that came out in 1995, one that
portrays her as a misunderstood, and occasionally rotten person. An affair with French actor Alain Delon
resulted in the birth of her son, which she promptly left with Delon’s mother.
By the time Nico reunited with the boy, she’d evolved into a knife-wielding junkie who, among her
many disreputable acts, got her own son
hooked on heroin. She was also deaf in one ear,
but that didn’t keep her from a singing career that included three
tracks on the first Velvet Underground album and a series of haunting solo
albums. She’s left a kind of fading echo, occasionally heard on movie
soundtracks, or picked up by far-flung artists like Bjork and Peter Murphy. A
Nico revival is unlikely, but her sound was distinct – the noise of a woman at
war with demons that would’ve sent the rest of us cowering.
Sweet Skin is fascinating because it’s Nico before her association with Andy Warhol,
before Lou Reed, before Jim Morrison, before the drugs that ravaged her, before
she became “the godmother of goth.” Her Germanic magnificence might’ve been
parlayed into a movie career, at least in Europe. There she stands: the lips
are like Peter Max creations, almost cartoonishly big; the eyelashes, as majestic and overdone as
Liz Taylor’s in Cleopatra, move like
shutters over her large, frightened eyes. Her acting is only fair – she moves
stiffly, a simple wave goodbye seems difficult, as if she’s never done it
before. Though visually stunning, she’s not especially sexy. She’s good at
conjuring a detached melancholy, as if nothing can measure up to her
expectations, or, as many say in Nico
Icon, she was already tired of being looked at. To me, she has the air of
someone who wants to be loved, but wouldn’t recognize love if she saw it.
From certain
angles (the work by Poitrenaud and cinematographer Raymond
Pierre Lemoigne is exquisite) she seems too big, her chin too prominent, as if
she’s a giant among dwarves. She’s playing Ariane, an unemployed ballerina who
resorts to working in a strip tease club. Nico’s stiffness actually serves the
plot, as a diligent club owner tries to mold Ariane into a classy strip act.
The solution is to pair her with a wooden marionette that looks just like her.
On her first night in front of a crowd, Ariane panics and runs from the stage,
leaving the marionette to perform alone. Audiences love it. “Postmodern strip
tease,” one customer calls it.
The irony is
thick. Just a few years later, Nico would be absorbed into the Warhol crowd and
be hailed as one of his “superstars.”
Warhol could certainly appreciate the idea of having a wooden doll
onstage performing instead of Nico. And there have been more than enough jokes
made about Nico’s wooden performances, so we’ll just let it go for now. In
his book Popism, Warhol wrote that
Nico looked like she belonged “right at the front of a Viking ship.” Faint
praise, really.
According
to the Nico legend, long before the making of Sweet Skin, she’d studied at the Actor’s Studio under Lee Strasberg
at the same time as Marilyn Monroe. Somehow, this claim feels like a harmless
fib to throw out during interviews. It was, after all, a time of reinvention of
self-mythologizing. At the least, it was a way to link her to the ultimate in
doomed beauties.
Would Sweet Skin be worth watching without
Nico? Sure. It’s not only an amusing time capsule of early sixties Paris, a
time when people put on their best clothes to go watch strippers, but there’s
some tasteful nudity, great photography, and music by Serge Gainsbourg (he makes a cameo). Though it’s
not on par with the great French films of the day, it’s a nice, all around
package produced by Jules Borkon, who’d been behind the classic French horror
film, Eyes Without A Face.
The supporting
cast around Nico is excellent. Dany Saval, looking like a young Joan Rivers, is
superb as Dodo, a feisty little stripper who introduces Ariane to the Paris
demimonde. Jazz legend Joe Turner is very fine as a kindhearted pub owner who
befriends Ariane. The various club employees who made up the background of the
movie seem authentic; they’re not enamored of the lifestyle but take their jobs
seriously. Darry Cowl is especially good as the man who teaches Ariane to move
provocatively, and to tell the audience, “Underneath this skin is a woman who
despises you.” I also loved the girl who dressed like an office worker,
complete with necktie and white dress shirt, and entertained the audience with
some sexy hip shaking.
Nico stands out
in a couple of scenes, and she does it all with her eyes. One is when she first
watches a woman strip. She looks as if something inside her is loosening,
something that had been bound up for years. The other is the moment before she
makes her debut at the club – she looks out at the crowd of customers and her
eyes glaze over, as if she’s seeing, for the first time, a new universe.
There are
predictable turns of plot – Ariane grows bored with her fame, falls in love
with a wealthy young rogue, and then realizes he’s only using her to upset his
stuffy family. She walks away from it all, head held high, determined to go
back to the ballet. But as trite as the plot may sound, there are some good
lines sprinkled throughout. When one of the strippers sees the new fur coat
worn by Ariane, bought by an heir to a munitions fortune, she smirks, “That
coat…must be worth a bomb.”
Sweet Skin could’ve been made in the 1930s with Jean Harlow in Nico’s role, but I
don’t know if it would work today. Exotic dancers are generally played for
laughs now, or else they’re on the periphery of plots about serial killers or
degenerate cops. They certainly aren’t placed on a pedestal the way they were
when Nico starred in this movie.
From here, Nico
appeared in some Warhol “films,” and a few European productions, each one more obscure
than the last. Sweet Skin was her one
mainstream acting venture. In an alternate universe she might have gone on to
become a Bond girl, or maybe a Barbara Steele type, appearing in classy
European horror movies. But in our universe, she was Nico. She died at 49. People
who knew her said Nico hated being beautiful, and was actually proud of the way
she aged, with her bad teeth and her spectral pallor. Maybe she enjoyed seeing
her outside finally reflect her inside.